Dave Wood Arts
WB Golf

Classical Wood Insert Replacement

Additional insert material had been trimmed closer to the face profile using band saw. Then, epoxied into place and clamped for curing.
Use the small radial side of the sanding belt to sculpt insert to an over-all, roughed-in form. Use a light touch with the belt sander when reducing the extra material.


Perform detailed face dimensions and specifications by hand with fine and round files, sandpaper, protractor and radius gages.

Also, at this stage of insert finishing detail, is final fitting of the sole plate to the face leading edge and sole camber combinations of intersecting lines and radii.

Sneak up on this in a process of fitting the sole plate into its cavity without screws. Use the dry-fitting of the sole plate as a gage to determine the high areas of the bottom of the insert that protrude and must be reduced for the plate to seat seamlessly into its original position.

When the plate seats perfectly into its radial cavity, the original screws on the plate will also seat correctly.

Connect the original heel and toe scoring with a fine point pencil

Craft your own precision scoring saw by converting a "Fine" 32T hack saw blade.


Cut a new hack saw blade in half and grind the wavy sides to create a 1/32" blade thickness.

The above photo shows the type of countersink I used for this project. This #5- 1/8" - 3/8 will drill pilot holes and countersink in one operation with a fixturing set up on a drill press with adjustable stops. These are available online from Constantines.

Mr. Phillips, a clubmaking hobbyist from Canada sent me a link to The Yard for an excellent quick change Micro-stop. A very highly recommended tool, especially when using a drill gun for the countersinking process.
Secure screws with epoxy. It makes a bit of a mess as you are working quickly.

After screws are completely seated, wipe away any residual epoxy from the face with a paper towel. Clean out the scoring and screw heads with a tooth pick.

The insert work on this set is nearly complete. Only final, precision facing detail remains with gages, files and sand paper before the club heads finishing process begins.

Shaft and hosel blending

This work does not relate to the insert making process. However, it was an important part of restoring these rare woods to their high classic form. Although the shafts are original, at some point during their journey through time, the long, streamlined ferrules had been cut off. The tops of the hosels had been ground to an extreme taper and whipped to nearly the base of the neck. (fatandugly)

A long time ago... Jackie Burke asked me to "build him a perfect driver"... Me: "Mr. Burke, what should it look like?"... Mr. Burke: "Just take a solid persimmon block and carve away everything that is not golf club. Me: Hmmm... Okay".

These Demaret woods are of the best and most beautiful persimmon woods ever created.

Restoring them required not carving away, but adding back material that had been stolen, then sculpting their original streamlined tapering into the shafts. I believe that Mr. D would have appreciated these lovely woods that bear his Signature.

Letter to Mr. D from his Dear friend.

Connect the lines and score through new fiber insert.
Face Scoring
Insert Screws



Original two-piece insert from Tommy Armour 653 Eye-O-Matic Driver was weather beaten , warped and freyed. Original screws were salvageble.
The angle cutting process for a two-piece is the same as for a solid one piece. However, pay careful attention to the location and angle of the center horizontal bar.
Match angle of horizontal bar angle to center scoring line configuration.

Note: The wood on the toe of this Driver is very chewed up. Set the insert with epoxy and clamp, before making the repair to the toe.
Ready for dissecting fairways!

Click on image for higher resolution view.

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Dave Wood Arts


info: davewoodarts@gmail.com
Two Piece Composition
Click on Demaret photos for enlarged view