Dave Wood Arts
WB Golf

Classical Wood Restoration Process


The best practice for coating golf clubs, is performed using a spray gun or aerosol spray can. The club head is a very small part made up of multiple, complex and curvilinear surfaces. Applying a smooth, thin and even coating, is a bit of a dancing action of the hands. With practice... touch, rotation and rhythm can be mastered using spray.

When purchasing an aerosol spray coating, take a close look at the spray head/nozzle. The drawing in fig 24 shows the two types of nozzles that are commonly provided with aerosol products.

Purchase only the aerosols with nozzle type a as this produces a superior fan, and is far more sensitive to the touch than type b.

Aerosol Basics

There are a few basic rules to follow to achieve good results when applying finish coats using an aerosol spray.

1. Aerosol spraying should be done in warm temperatures between 70-85° F. The can and piece being finished, should be stored in a warm room to insure good results. When taking a can from a cold area for use, run it under hot water (no more than 120° F.) for 5 to 10 minutes. If the aerosol can is too cold; A. The can pressure will be low and will not spray properly. B. The coating material will be too thick, causing it to not flow well on the surface.

2. Never spray in a drafty area, as air currents may deflect the spray and cause for over-spray, or contaminants in the air (dust) to mix in the coating.

3. Performance of aerosol coating depends on thorough mixing of the contents before and during use. Shake the can vigorously until its internal agitator balls have loosened.

4. Depress the spray head completely for proper atomization. Partially depressing the head can result in droplets forming (spitting) and ending up on the finish surface.

5. Hold spray can 10 to 12 inches from surface being coated. Holding the can too close to the finishing surface could trap the propellant, causing for bubbles to appear within the finish. Spraying from too long a distance, may cause for overspray, orange peel or sandpaper like texture, because solvents might evaporate before the complete spray hits the surface.

6. Begin spray stroke from off the piece, moving onto the area being finished. This eliminates overspray or puddling of the coating. All aerosol spraying calls for short bursts, stop at the end of each stroke. Never spray continuously.

7. As the club head is a part made up of multiple curved surfaces and radii. It is not always easy to see our spray progress, having a good light source for surface reflection is very important.

As with most spray finishes, its best to apply several thin light coats, as opposed to one heavy coat.

Since polyurethanes are hard and glossy, they will show surface imperfections, so starting with a smooth, clean surface is essential, as is abrading between each coat with 0000 steel wool for oil based and very fine 400-600 sandpaper for water base.

The surface abrasion smooths the surface, while providing each new coating with a very firm grip to the previous one. Pay careful attention when abrading the surface. Use a light touch. We want it to appear smooth and dull, without breaking through the coating to the previous layer.

Paint Filling

Once the second clear coat has dried and the pores in the wood appear to be level and smooth, fill-in the stampings using acrylic paint. (Liquitex is a good brand and is available at most arts and crafts stores)

Rub the paint into the stamp cavities, then wipe the excess from the surface using a folded paper towel for firm flatness. Gently wipe across the stamp diagonally to its line depressions to avoid pulling paint out from the marking.

Face Paint

Since the face area had not been filled with paste filler, the layers of clear coating with surface abrasion between the coats, will have filled the open grain after the third coat and should be ready to accept scoring line paint.

Final Coating

The paint filling is now complete and three coats have been applied. At this point, the finish is beginning to look very rich, but perhaps a little thin...

Before applying the fourth coating, if you detect any bumpiness to the surface, abrade and smooth it with 400-600 sandpaper, followed with 0000 steel wool for surface polishing (oil base coating only). Once this surface has dried, apply your fifth and perhaps- final clear coat.


Jump to page... 1.. 2.. 3.. 4.. 5.. 6.. 7.. 8.

Copyright 2017 © Dave Wood

Dave Wood Arts

info: davewoodarts@gmail.com